The part number is 20N10L. Grounding the tab is still able to be done to test that a coil is good and that the issues is either the drive transistor or further upstream. With Pinball came some methods to help make operator maintenance easier. One of those features is a burnt out lamp detection feature in the game diagnostics. The only problem with this is that if you put LEDs in your machine, they draw too little current to be detected as good and will report as bad to your machine.
LED bulbs sometimes strobe incorrectly for the feature lights after the machine is on for some time. Also, using LEDs may eliminate most of the fade effects that would otherwise normally be seen when using incandescent bulbs. However, due to the lack of a "general illumination" circuit, instead of a single 8x8 matrix, Pinball uses two 2 8x8 matrixes for a total of possible controlled lamps.
The switches are a common failure on these machines. The sub-microswitches used throughout the playfield are susceptible to sporadic or total failure, like some WPC games.
Most switch related problems are the switch itself not the switch matrix. Replacement of the switches is the only resolution to make them reliable again. These are common switches in a Pinball machine:. DB3 is the modern equivalent - but not as good. Buy the DA3 switch body if still available and snap on the original actuating wire. Problem: Machine reports coin door open all the time Solution: Check motherboard mount in Pin computer case.
If your machine is reporting this, check the raised mounts under the motherboard in the Pin2k computer case. Inside the Williams Pinball computer case, there are 6 raised, threaded metal lugs acting as mounts beneath the motherboard to secure it to the case.
However, some of the replacement boards don't allow all the holes to line up. The top middle peg closest to the power supply can grounding out on the bottom of the motherboard where there was no hole to secure it and causing the machine to think the coin door was open. To fix this, cut three rubber mini post grommets in half horizontally to make two small rubber doughnuts and use the six rubber pieces to create insulators for all six posts.
The monitor inside a Pinball machine is a normal low-resolution arcade monitor. At this age, most of these monitors could use adjusting, if not a capacitor kit. Re-capping the chassis, neck board and re-flowing major solder joints is a good start to bullet proof your machine. You can do it with a long screw driver with the shank grounded. Slide it under the rubber insulating cup, and when contact is made, a pop or snap will be heard. Do this a couple times before touching it. The tube can sometimes have a residue charge, even if it hasn't been turned on in awhile.
Always discharge it before touching it. One note on the Ducksan chassis. There is a fuse on the chassis that if blown, it will not discharge a couple big capacitors on the board. If for some reason this fuse is open or blown the capacitors will have a charge until you ground them or touch it. Look for a blown fuse on the chassis before prodding a lot of things. If you see a blown fuse, discharge the big caps on the chassis. On the upside if you do discharge it with your body you will remember it longer than reading about it!
This option will require a signal converter to convert the low resolution signal to something a VGA computer monitor can handle. A Kortek KTN a.
Adding a video amplifier to the standard CRT monitor drastically increases contrast and color. This is a fairly simple and relatively cheap add-on. The recommended video amp can be purchased from Ultimarc. Installation is basically feeding the video cable output from the P computer into the video amp.
Wires will have to be attached to the amp's screw down terminals. These run from the amp output screw down terminals to the CRT chassis. With Wells Gardner, the sync wires can be joined together. Here is a link to the pin outs on a Wells Gardner.
You would use the first four pins: R,G,B and Gnd. The two ground wires tie together. Locations are clearly indicated on the video amp. On Ducksan chassis, the Sync wires will be separated.
If using the Ducksan chassis, there is a small board trace on the amp that must be cut. This is so the video sync is correct. If the sync is wrong, the symptom will be a rolling picture that can not be adjusted. If hooked up incorrectly, there shouldn't be any ill results, except there will not be a picture. Test this with a meter set to DC volts between pin 9 and the metal shell of the cable supplied with the video amp connected to your PC and with the game up and running attract mode.
Fear not. You need to run a long connection from a spare 4-pin molex drive connector connect to one of the Red wires in the PC out to the Video amp. The isolated pad it needs to be soldered to is indicated at the bottom of the ultimarc product page and shown here. Then cable tie the wire to the whole length of the supplied video cable leaving some slack at the ends.
You don't need to run a separate ground wire, the shield of the cables and other earthing takes care of it for you. Beyond that consider re-capping the chassis, neck board and re-flowing solder connections. This is highly recommended. Once the amp is installed and running, it's a good idea to turn the contrast down on your chassis or neck board adjustment pot. The amp will really kick it up a lot from its previous setting.
It's not a bad idea to adjust the focus on the flyback too. If the existing CRT tube is good, video amp is a nice add on. However, that is not to say modern LCD panels don't look good. The audio amp circuit board inside the PC box is pretty reliable, but if it does ever have problems, there are 2 strikes against it:. The other side of the audio is based on the PRISM card which is also all surface mount and out of date chips that are challenging to find.
The Nucore folks at Bigguys Pinball created a modern replacement amplifier board for Pinball Support information for the aftermarket amplifier board is available on the Bigguys website and the schematics here. The original Audio Amplifier found in Pinball machines are driven from the PRISM card with a unique connector, however the original design has an unpopulated headphone 3.
While I have not found a proper jack to install on the board, you can use an old pair of headphones, cut the cable off, add 2 components and solder the cable straight to the board.
This will allow you to use an original audio amplifier for a nucore system. The Top hole is "right" audio, the bottom left component side is ground, and the bottom right component side is "left" audio.
Then you will need to tie the resistor and the positive lead of the capacitor to pin 1 of J1 closest to the corner of the board. The negative lead of the capacitor then is attached to the ground for the headphone pin bottom left. The other side of the resistor gets tied to the 5V input of the audio amp board, which happens to be the closest pin on the 4-pin connector to the side of J1.
The flipper assemblies are Williams "WPC" style units. It should be noted that the E. With a bit of effort, the reed switch can be removed from the Williams Reed Switch assembly and replaced with a standard '1 Form A' 7mm reed switch.
A step by step procedure along with photographs is provided by Pinside poster lyonsden. Step 1: Take out reed switch Step 2: Pick out silicone whatever it is. I used a small flathead screwdriver. Step 3: Expose diode and reed switch.
Step 4: Pry out magnet Note: Don't pry out magnet on the other side of the reed switch. Step 5: push out reed switch and diode with switch wires. Note that there are small channels the wires run through in an internal bracket and then between the magnets.
Step 6: Remove old reed switch and diode might as well replace everything. Step 8: Tin new diode and place in channel. Note the direction of the diode!
Note: You'll have to cut the lead to fit Step 9: Solder leads of diode and reed switch together. Step Solder plug wire to reed lead. Clip excess lead Step Solder plug wire to diode lead. It is not used in Sega Lost in Space Often the original board is either missing, or non functioning and burned up.
We have developed a much improved replacement with many innovations over the original including mosfets drivers, reset switch, reset and power leds etc. Twister Golden Eye. This board is a drop in replacement for the problematic waterfall lamp effects board for Williams Whitewater.
We have developed a completely original replacement with many improvements over the original including proper enable and disable lighting in sync with the playfield. No more locking on the topper lamps during boot up or during non related test modes. A range of bulbs are also usable with this board meaning you arent stuck with the obsolete and expensive ones present originally. Lamps are off at boot just like the GI and no longer lock in during test modes. More cost effective 12v bulbs are fully compatible, along with original 14v bulbs.
Standard Board. The board is fed from a separate isolated 12v power supply rated at 5A max which can either be plugged in the games switched line input or separately, so no more driver board mod load issues. Also the board has power output leds, fuse protection, short circuit protection and 5v output option. The fuse included with the board will be 4A. Can also be used to offload the power requirents for ColorDMD screens and panels. The PAC board is designed to control a 5vv device from a range of inputs, DC or AC and be activated for an adjustable amount of time via an onboard pot from a single ground pulse.
The ground pulse can be taken from any drive in the game you like. Originally developed as a shaker controller board for Williams and Stern titles, this is the second generation of this board and has been improved to assist with the control of many 3rd party add ons in an easy and factory way. Any standard pinball driver. The ZX Spectrum was my favourite thing in the whole world when i was 8.
It's what led me into a world of software and hardware design. Every since i first got a rubber keyed 48k, i always thought one day i'll make my own, never really thinking that it would be possible. However with my lifetime of 8-bit pinball hardware repair knowledge always expanding and with me developing my own range of replacement cpu and sound board hardware for various pinball systems over the last few years the thought reappeared in my mind and now didn't feel to far away.
I wanted to create a k pcb board as i love the AY music so much. This chip is used in arcade games to from the same era and has such a cool sound. Also some of my favourite games from years gone by had extra features for the like renegade. See what other people are saying about this board over on World Of Spectrum See what other people are saying about this board over on Pinball Info This board is a drop in replacement for the rather prone to failing and hard to find Stern high brightness double LED flasher board that is found in Indiana Jones.
It provides excellenet effects on various features and is something that is fully integrated in my custom game rewrite. This board is a complete re-design of the concept using using newly sourced modern parts, bigger better LEDs and less SMD stuff where at all possible! I am a plate through fan, as per all my other board redesigns. Simple plug and play. Designed by pinball addicts for pinball fans! This board can also be used for other custom game projects and is buildable for low or high signal operation.
Pinball Transformer, Excellent condition, very rare. Completely rebuilt, all new capacitors. Working, game tested in our RFM. All parts purchased through this site are under warranty.
For specific warranty information please see the product categories below. The installation of these parts can cause damage to your game or part if installed incorrectly or there is an underlying problem that has not been addressed.
Please note: The installation of any part in your game may not fix the problem. It does not mean the part is defective. Often there is either a known or undetermined problem that is not alleviated by the installation of a new or refurbished part. If you believe that your part has malfunctioned and is in the warranty coverage period, please contact us before sending it in for authorization via email. We will help to determine the next best steps for your particular part. It is best to contact us via email.
Please be sure to provide the following information: Your name, the type of board, the game name i. Black Knight , and what the game is or isn't doing. A technician will reply promptly to your email. In most cases, there are other undiagnosed problems with customers' games which may cause the appearance of a malfunctioned board.
Most boards that come back to us have no problems whatsoever. The testing fee has been implemented to recover the time it takes to test the board.
There is NO testing fee if we find problems. We fix the board and send it back at no cost to the customer. NOTE: Parts that are returned to us damaged due to power surges or other external sources are not covered under warranty. If for any reason the board malfunctions please contact us immediately and we will direct you accordingly.
All parts returned must be in their original sealed packaging to qualify for a refund. Open or damaged items do not qualify for a return. Please contact us if you are not sure if your item can be returned. The only guaranteed service is UPS second day or UPS next day air which is available to most locations, there are some exceptions.
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