This model is not designed with a tilt lock system as used on the later 6 and 8hp series. Here you see the Red-Neck tilt lock assembly in use. There is no fold out carrying handle tucked into the front of the clamping bracket as on the later 8hp series.
The upper and lower motor mounts are made of rubber and are the same interchangeable part. They appear to be very durable, plus easy to get to. With the tilt knob activated so that the motor can be tilted up, lift the motor up slightly, move this 65 lever so it goes over center and you now have the lower unit held in a position about even with the bottom of the boat.
Mid-Section exploded view of the later 6 7 8hp series, with the only difference this 7. Muffler : These motors have a small plastic cover that covers the upper exhaust vent on the rear of the midsection 80 in the above illustration. This does muffle the motor some, but in reality it was called a "water outlet" on these earlier models. So if you see a slight amount of blackish oil coming out of the bottom of this, it is normal. Water Indicator : These motors have the tell tale water indicator system common with most of the later motors.
Here the 4. These seem to be a bit more trouble free as related to plugging up as the outlet hose to the overboard tell tale takes off the side-plate cover near the top instead of the bottom.
This helps a bit in that it is less susceptible there to less debris plugging a outer tube. Water Intake : These motors main water supply to the water pump comes from a screened tube right behind the prop in the exhaust outlet which was carried over from earlier motors. Water is forced into the screened intake to the water pump by the prop thrust. Some users report that when running these motors in a barrel, usually a small one that the prop has to be installed and usually in gear as apparently they need to get more water pushed to the water pump by the prop to get enough to cool when running at over an idle.
There is no stainless steel intake plate on the left side above the cavitation plate like the previous versions. Aftermarket flush kits for this motor are obsolete and rather scarce. There is really no provision currently available for a easy muff system to run this motor out of a tank. But there is hope. But that is a project in itself. Overheat Problems at Troll or in Tank : If you happen to have the motor overheating at slow speeds, you might consider looking at the water intake screen tube which is situated in the lower unit directly behind the prop.
This is placed here so that the prop thrust pushes fresh water into this slotted screen tube. This slotted screen could be inadvertently blocked enough that these holes could partially block water intake at a slow speed. This slotted screen is made of plastic which would be hard to remove and save after many years, plus it is expensive to replace. So using a small nail or similar tool, you should be able to carefully clean any debris from the holes clear enough to make a difference. When using this motor in a tank, always run it in forward gear as the water pickup tube is directly behind the prop, with the idea the prop will help push water into the pickup tube.
If the tube is partly plugged and the motor is ran mostly in neutral, the motor may not be getting enough cooling water and overheat. T o disassemble this for water pump impeller replacement, there is a difference in the shifting rod from any previous motor of this size. The upper end of the lower unit shifting rod is machined to match the 78 bevel gear coupler, which should just slide out and down when you drop the lower unit. The whole shifting rod then drops down and then out the bottom with the lower unit.
This is a lot simpler to disassemble than the previous years. Replacing it back into the midsection housing and re-aligning it after replacing the impeller may prove interesting. This CAN all happen without having to remove the powerhead, however it may take a bit of jiggling to get things to slide back together.
The first part to align is the water tube, which slides into the long upper snout of the housing. This snout is considerably longer than most, so it helps get the tube started while you can still see inside the midsection from below using a flashlight. The tube's lower end is cut on a angle to help facilitate easy entry into the grommet in the upper end of the snout. Second the driveshaft and finally the shifting rod.
Initially I was worried about the shifting rod's re-alignment, but that was easy. The hard part was to align the driveshaft. It took a lot of eyeballing for the lower unit's upper mating surface to be even with the midsection's lower mating surface. You can not see the shifting rod as it goes up inside it's own pocket, but it must have a internal tapered area at the top because things just slide in fine.
Now for a confusing part on my 6hp. Since we are dealing with a used motor with no known repair history, we are not sure what had been previously done. I purchased the proper identified impeller from the parts manual Upon removal of the water pump, I found the existing impeller was the right diameter but thinner in vertical dimensions.
The recommended replacement was. As luck would have it the existing one appears to have recently been replaced, so I just reinstalled it.
It was not clear if mine had a replacement water pump OR I got the wrong impeller. The experts say to not reuse a lower water pump plate if it is scored.
Well this one had a couple of deep circular partial grooves in it. I disregarded the smaller diameter one near where the seal ridge of the impeller rubbed. But there was one larger wear groove out farther and near the outer edge.
Not wanting to wait for a replacement, I took it to my band-sander and using a worn grit belt, sanded this stainless steel plate from all directions to removed minute metal as evenly as possible.
OH yes, you will need to dip into water after each sanding, as it gets HOT. Thinning this plate should not have any effect on reliability as long as it was smooth, and this plate uses a gasket both on top and bottom, and the pump housing bolts on top.
Maybe not recommended, but it worked. The stainless steel cup looked in better condition so nothing was needed on it. Lower Unit : They have a unitized gearcase accessible from the rear instead of the previous gearcase that split horizontally at the prop shaft line. There is a prop shaft nose cap on the rear is not screwed on, but a slip fit that is retained by a cotter pin.
The new rotating shifting shaft cam in the lower unit, pushes a internal spring loaded rod that is in contact with the shifting clutch dog. The water intake is in the exhaust tube right behind the prop as used in the older smaller OMC engines as seen by the screen 24 hanging down in the exploded drawing below.
And it offers no real opportunity to attach a currently made flushing attachment. One thing they made provisions for was a recessed location in the lower unit to install a zinc anode, 47 in the exploded views below.
And this threaded hole sets at a slight angle with the outer housing when it is tightened in tight. If it looks like it is going in crooked, stop before you ruin what threads are left.
If the unit is full of oil, you may be able to lay it down enough to be able to remove the plug without a lot of oil draining out. To remove the lower unit on these motors there is one bolt in front that is quite visible 5 for a short or extra long shaft, or 58 for a long shaft in the illustration above. There are also two more bolts underneath, above the prop Removing all three of these should allow the lower unit to be withdrawn from the exhaust housing and down to where you can remove it to access the water pump housing If this does not allow the lower unit to drop down, possibly some previous mechanic did not grease the upper driveshaft splines and it is stuck in the crankshaft.
The prop has a shear pin and the rear plastic bullet nose is just a retainer that is held in place by the cotter-pin. These props have a rubber hub bonded to the prop along with to the bronze hub. This made it very hard to get the shear pin in place while still having the brass spacer 54 shown above.
I tried to press the hub rearward, but no avail as the rubber was still bonded or stuck , so I simply chucked the prop in the lathe and removed that amount off the rear of the prop to allow the spacer to be in place and to accept the cotter pin The prop shaft is. Well my guess is that since most roller bearings and seals are actually made in metric sizes, this.
Prop Specifications ; The 4. For the 7. Fuel tank air vent closed or restricted. Air vent must be open and free from contaminants.
A pinched or restricted fuel line. Check, and replace as needed. Dirty or restricted fuel filter. Check, replace or clean. Enrichener valve not operating.
Check enrichener system. An inlet needle in carburetor that is stuck open or closed. A needle stuck open, will cause a flooding condition. A needle stuck closed, will prevent fuel from entering carburetor.
Remove, clean, or replace. Anti-Siphon valve restricting fuel flow. Flush out inlet seat and clean inlet needle. Worn inlet needle. Punctured float. Incorrect float setting. Reset float. Air leaks past mixing chamber cover. Tighten bolts securely. Tighten cover or replace gasket. Fuel level too low. Reset float level. Clogged high speed jet. Check and clean. Restricted fuel flow to carburetor.
Check fuel lines and filter s for restricted flow. Incorrect high speed jet. Refer to main jet chart and replace with proper jet. Idle mixture set too lean. Adjust to run richener. Air leakage into fuel system. Check fuel line connections, hose clamps, fuel pump, and fuel outlet tube located in fuel tank for loose fittings.
Reset float to correct level. Carburetor floods. Blow out with compressed air. Restricted air flow. Check cowl air inlet and carburetor for obstructions. Main Fuel Jet loose. Retighten Jet. Check - Air vent must be open all-the-way and free from restrictions.
A pinched, cut or restricted fuel line; also loose fuel line connection. However, the prudent skipper is prepared ahead of time, and is thus able to handle the emergency without a lot of fuss. With a very modest expenditure, a well-stocked and adequate kit can be prepared at home. Any kit should include instruments, supplies, and a set of instructions for their use.
Instruments should be protected in a watertight case and should include: scissors, tweezers, tourniquet, thermometer, safety. You may want to consult your family physician about including antibiotics. Be sure your kit contains a first-aid manual because even though you have taken the Red Cross course, you may be the patient and have to rely on an untrained crew for care. With the UL certification, the extinguisher does not have to have a Coast Guard approval number. The Coast Guard classifies fire extinguishers according to their size and type.
This type extinguisher is required on all motorboats. Detailed classification shers is by agent and size:. The class of motorboat dictates how many fire extinguishers are required on board. One B-II unit can be substituted for two B-1 extinguishers.
When the engine compartment of a motorboat is equipped with a fixed bull t-in extinguishing system, one less portable B-1 unit is required. Dry chemical fire extinguishers without. If the gross weight of a carbon dioxide CO? READ labels on fire extinguishers. If the extinguisher is U. Under these conditions, he may have no other means of keeping to his desired course except with the compass.
When crossing an open body of water, his compass may be the only means of making an accurate landfall. During thick weather when you can neither see nor hear the expected aids to navigation, attempting to run out the time on a given course can disrupt the pleasure of the cruise. The skipper gains little comfort in a chain of soundings that does not match those given on the chart for the expected area.
Any stranding, even for a short time, can be an unnerving experience. A pilot will not knowingly accept a cheap parachute. A good boater should not accept a bargain in lifejackets, fire extinguishers, or compass. Take the time and spend the few extra dollars to purchase a compass to fit your expected needs. Regardless of what the salesman may tell you, postpone buying until you have had the chance to check more than one make and model.
Lift each compass, til t and turn it, simulating expected motions of the boat. The compass card should have a smooth and stable reaction. Reasonable movement in your hand, comparable to the rolling and pitching. The compass is a delicate instrument and deserves respect.
It should be mounted securely and in position where it can be easily observed by the helmsman. Installation Proper installation of the compass does not happen by accident. Make a critical check of the proposed location to be sure compass placement will permit the helmsman to use it with comfort and accuracy. First, the compass should be placed directly in front of the helmsman and in such a position that it can be viewed without body stress as he sits or stands in a posture of relaxed alertness.
If the compass is too far away, he may have to bend forward to watch it; too close and he must rear backward for relief. Do not hesitate to spend a few extra dollars for a good reliable compass. If in doubt, seek advice from fellOW boaters.
Second, give some thought to comfort in heavy weather and poor visibil ty conditions during the day and night. In some cases, the compass position may be partially determined by the location of the wheel, shift lever, and throttle handle.
Third, inspect the compass site to be sure the instrument will be at least two feet from any engine indicators, bilge vapor detectors, magnetic instruments, or any steel. If the compass cannot be placed at least two feet six feet would be better from one of these influences, then either the compass or the other object must be moved, if first order accuracy is to be expected. Once the com pass loca tlon appears to be satisfactory, give the compass a test before installation.
Hidden influences may be concealed under the cabin top, forward of the cabin aft bulkhead, within the cockpit ceiling, or in a wood-covered stanchion. Move the compass around in the area of the proposed location.
Keep an eye on the card. A magnetic influence is the only thing that will make the card turn. You can quickly find any such influence with the compass. If the influence can not be moved away or replaced by one of non-magnetic ma terial, test to determine whether it is merely magnetic, a small piece of iron or steel, or some magnetized steel.
Bring the north pole of the compass near the object, then shift and bring the south pole near it. Both the north and south poles will be attracted if the compass is demagnetized. If the object attracts one pole and repels the other, then the compass is magnetized.
After you have moved the compass around in the proposed mounting area, hold it down or tape it in position. Test everything you feel might affect the compass and cause a deviation from a true reading. Rotate the wheel from hard over to hard over. Switch on and off all the lights, radios, radio direction finder, radio telephone, depth finder and the shipboard intercom, if one is installed.
Sound the electric whistle, turn on the windshield wipers, start the engine with water circulating through the engine , work the throttle, and move the gear shift lever. If the boat has an auxiliary generator, start it. If the card moves during anyone of these tests, the compass should be reloca ted.
Naturally, if something like the windshield wipers cause a slight deviation, it may be necessary for you to make a different deviation table to use only when certain pieces of equipment is operating. Vibration will increase pivot wear. Now, you are ready to mount the compass. To prevent an error on all courses, the line through the lubber line and the compass card pivot must be exactly parallel to the keel of the boat.
You can establish the fore-and-aft line of the boat with a stout cord or string. Use care to transfer this line to the compass site. If necessary, shim the base of the compass until the stile-type lubber line the one affixed to the case and not glrnbaled is vertical when the boat is on an even keel.
Drill the holes and mount the compass. Magnetic Items After Installation Many times an owner will install an expensive stereo system in the cabin of his boat. It is not uncommon for the speakers to be mounted on the aft bulkhead up against the overhead ceiling.
In almost ever y case, this position places one of the speakers in very close proximity to the compass, mounted above the ceiling. As we all know, a magnet is used in the operation of the speaker. Therefore, it is very likely that the speaker, mounted almost under the compass in the cabin will have a very pronounced affect on the compass accuracy.
Consider the following test and the accompanying photographs as prove of the statements made. First, the compass was read as degrees while the boat was secure in her slip. Next a full can of diet coke in an aluminum can was placed on one side and the compass read as degrees, a good 14degrees off.
Next, the full can was moved to the opposite side of the compass and again a reading was observed. This time as degrees, 11 degrees off from the original reading. At night, or in thick weather, this could very possibly put the boat on a reef, rock, or shoal, with disastrous resul ts. Avoid sharp bends when routing the cable. Check to be sure the pulleys turn freely and all fittings are secure. The anchor must be of sui table size, type, and weight to give the skipper peace of mind when his boat is at anchor.
Under certain conditions, a second, smaller, lighter anchor may help to keep the boat in a favorable position during a non-emergency daytime situation. In order for the anchor to hold properly, a piece of chain must be attached to the anchor and then the nylon anchor line attached to the chain. The amount of chain should equal or exceed the length of the boat.
Such a piece of chain will ensure that the anchor stock will lay in an approximate horizontal position and permit the flutes to dig into the bottom and hold. In addition to the equipment you are legally required to carry in the boat and those previously mentioned, some extra items will add to your boating pleasure and safety. Practical suggestions would include: a bailing device bucket, pump, e tc.
The bilge pump line must be cleaned frequently to ensure the entire bilge pump system will function properly in an ernergency,. The area of your boating activity, weather condi tions, length of stay aboard your boat, and the specific purpose will all contribute to the kind and amount of stores you put aboard. Bilge Pumps Automatic bilge pumps should be equipped with an overriding manual switch.
The pump motor should be a sealed or arcless type, suitable for a marine atmosphere. Place the bilge pump inlets so excess bilge water can be removed at all normal boat trims. The intakes should be properly screened to prevent the pump from sucking up debris from the bilge. Intake tubing should be of a high quali ty and stiff enough to resist kinking and not collapse under maximum pump suction condition if the intake becomes blocked.
To test operation of the bilge pump, operate the pump switch. If the motor does not run, disconnect the leads to the motor. Connect a vol tm eter to the leads and see if voltage is indicated. If voltage is not indicated, then the problem must be in a blown fuse, defective switch, or some other area of the electrical system. If the meter indicates voltage is present at the leads, then remove, disassemble, and inspect the bilge pump. Clean it, reassemble, connect the leads, and operate the sw itch again.
If the motor still fails to run, the pump must be replaced. To test the bilge pump switch, first disconnect the leads from the pump and connect them to a test light or ohmmeter. Next, hold the switch firmly against the mounting location in order to make a good ground.
Now, til t the opposite end of the switch upward until it is activated as indicated by the test light coming on or the ohmmeter showing continuity.
Finally, lower the switch slowly toward the mounting. Measure the distance between the point the switch was activated and the point it was deactivated. Once the report is filed, the Coast Guard will not give out a copy, even to the person who filled the report. The report must give details of the accident and include: 1- The date, time, and exact location of the occurrence. In the spring of , the Coast Guard began making modifications to U.
The modifications shown in the accompanying illustrations should be completed by the end of Lights The following information regarding lights required on boats between sunset and sunrise or during restricted visibility is taken directly from a U. Coast Guard publication dated If the operator cannot file the report for any reason, each person on aboard MUST notify the authorities, or determine that the report has been filed.
In the United States, a buoyage system is used as an assist to all boaters of all size craft to navigate our coastal waters and our navigable rivers in safety. When properly read and understood, these buoys and markers will permit the boater to cruise with comparative confidence that he will be able.
On the water, certain basic safe-operating practices must be followed. You should learn and practice them, for to know, is to be able to handle your boat with confidence and safety. Knowledge of what to do, and not do, will add a great deal to the enjoyment you will receive from your boating investment.
The following two paragraphs give a VER Y brief condensed and abbreviated. Powered boats must yield the right-ofway to all boats without motors, except when being overtaken.
When meeting another boat head-on, keep to starboard, unless you are too far to port to make this practical. When overtaking another boat, the right-of-way belongs to the boat being overtaken.
If your boat is being passed, you must maintain course and speed. When two boats approach at an angle and there is danger of collision, the boat to port must give way to the boat to starboard. Always keep to starboard in a narrow channel or canal. Boats underway must stay clear of vessels fishing with nets, lines, or trawls. Fishing boats are not allowed to fish in channels or to obstruct navigation. The importance of performing service work in the sequence detailed in this chapter cannot be over emphasized.
Before making any adjustments, check the Specifications in the Appendix. NEVER rely on memory when making critical adjustments. Before beginning to tune any engine, check to be sure the engine has satisfactory compression.
An engine with worn or broken piston rings, burned pistons, or badly scored cylinder walls, cannot be made to perform properly no matter how much time and expense is spent on the tune-up. The opposite of poor compression would be to consider good compression as evidence of a satisfactory cylinder.
However, this is not necessarily the case, when working on an outboard engine. As the professional mechanic has discovered, many times the compression check will indicate a satisfactory cylinder, but after the head is pulled and an inspection made, the cylinder will require service. Keeping the interior well and properly adjusted will give him the deserved for his investment.
A practical maintenance program that is followed throughout the year, is one of the best methods of ensuring the engine will give satisfactory performance at any time. The extent of the engine tune-up is usually dependent on the time lapse since the last service. A complete tune-up of the entire engine would entail almost all of the work outlined in this manual.
A logical sequence of steps will be presented in general terms. If additional information or detailed service work is required, the chapter containing the instructions will be referenced. Each year higher compression ratios are built into modern outboard engines and the electr ical systems become more complex, especially with electronic capacitor discharge units. Therefore, the need for reliable, authoratative, and detailed instructions becomes more critical.
The information in this chapter and the referenced chapters fulfill that requirement. As the terms are used in this manual and other Seloc outboard books, the following work is normally performed for a minor and major tune-up. Minor Tune-up. Lubricate engine. Drain and replace gear oil.
Adjust points. Adjust carburetor. Clean exterior surface of engine. Tank test engine for fine adjustments. The time, effort, and expense of a tune-up will not restore an engine to satisfactory performance, if the pistons are damaged.
Remove head. Clean carbon from pistons and cylinders. C lean and 0 ver haul carbu retor. Clean and overhaul fuel pump.
Rebuild and adjust ignition system. During a major tune-up, a definite sequence of service work should be followed to return the engine to the maximum performance desired. In many cases, these two areas will over lap, because many times a minor or major tune-up will correct the malfunction and return the system to normal operation.
0コメント